Conscious Framework

Category: Apparel

These garments explore the relationship between historic and modern architecture, translating the contrast between ornate craftsmanship and contemporary structural forms into a wearable design. Inspired by the balance between decorative heritage and innovative construction, the piece combines traditional textile techniques with experimental natural materials to demonstrate how sustainability and creativity can coexist. The outfit consists of a structured corset and a sculptural quilted skirt, both constructed from a variety of cotton fabrics. Cotton was selected as the primary textile because it is a natural, plant-based fibre that is breathable, biodegradable, and can return to the environment at the end of its life when left untreated. Using different weights and finishes of cotton allowed me to create both the soft drape required for the corset and the structured form of the skirt while remaining within the competition's focus on natural materials. I used 100% cotton sateen for the main body of the garments with a lawn as the lining to create a garment that is soft and comfortable to the body. The skirt is quilted using cotton wadding, replacing the polyester waddings commonly found in fashion. Cotton wadding is derived from natural cellulose fibres, making it biodegradable while also providing volume and insulation. The quilting gives the garment its bold architectural silhouette, echoing the geometric forms and structural rhythm found in modern buildings. The garment is constructed entirely using natural cotton thread, both for assembly and quilting. While polyester thread is the industry standard due to its strength, cotton thread was selected to maintain the integrity of the garment's natural material palette. As a biodegradable cellulose fibre, cotton thread complements the cotton fabrics and wadding, contributing to a garment that has a reduced reliance on synthetic components throughout its construction. The corset is supported using hemp rope instead of conventional steel or plastic boning. Hemp is one of the world's most sustainable natural fibres because it grows rapidly with minimal irrigation and requires significantly fewer pesticides and fertilisers than many commercial crops. It also improves soil health by returning nutrients to the ground and is fully biodegradable at the end of its life. Using hemp rope as boning challenged conventional corsetry by demonstrating that a renewable natural material can provide the rigidity needed to sculpt the body while reducing reliance on synthetic or mined materials. The interior of the corset features a bespoke screen print developed from my own primary photography of architectural details Screen printing was chosen because it allowed me to create a precise, repeatable design with minimal material waste, while printing directly onto the natural cotton lining integrated my research into the garment's construction. During my research, I photographed both historic and contemporary buildings, focusing on their textures, repeating patterns, and structural forms. These photographs were transformed into screen-printed imagery and applied to the cotton lining, creating a hidden narrative within the garment. By placing the print on the inside rather than the outer surface, I wanted to reference the hidden frameworks that support architecture, emphasising that the unseen construction is just as significant as the finished exterior. Screen printing also allowed me to create a durable design with little waste, as ink is applied only where required and the screens can be reused throughout the printing process. One of the most innovative aspects of the garment is the embellishment. Rather than using commercially manufactured plastic sequins, I developed my own biodegradable bioplastic sequins using gelatine, vegetable glycerine, and beetroot powder which I then laser-cut. Traditional sequins are typically made from petroleum-based plastics that can persist in the environment for hundreds of years and contribute to microplastic pollution. In contrast, gelatine is a naturally derived protein, glycerine acts as a biodegradable plasticiser that provides flexibility and longevity and beetroot powder offers a plant-based pigment in place of synthetic dyes. Together, these materials create decorative embellishments that maintain the visual impact of conventional sequins while significantly reducing their environmental footprint. Their reflective surface is inspired by the way light interacts with glass façades, polished stone, and metal cladding, reinforcing the dialogue between historic ornamentation and contemporary architecture. The quantity represents how repetition can be used across architecture and fashion. Metal closures complete the garment, providing durability and longevity. Although metal is not biodegradable, it is a natural material that can be recycled repeatedly without losing its structural properties. By selecting durable, reusable fastenings, the design encourages longevity and repair rather than disposal, supporting a more circular approach to fashion. Throughout this project, every material and process were selected to demonstrate that sustainable fashion extends beyond fabric choice. It involves reconsidering every component of a garment, from its internal structure and surface decoration to its construction techniques, to minimise environmental impact while maintaining creativity and craftsmanship. By combining natural fibres, biodegradable biomaterials, traditional screen printing, and architectural inspiration, this piece reimagines the relationship between fashion, sustainability, and the built environment, proving that innovative design can be both visually striking and environmentally responsible. Every material was carefully considered, from the cotton fabrics, cotton thread, and cotton wadding to the hemp rope boning and handmade bioplastic sequins. Rather than focusing solely on the visible elements, I aimed to challenge conventional garment construction by replacing hidden synthetic components with natural alternatives wherever possible. This approach demonstrates that sustainable fashion extends beyond surface aesthetics and requires thoughtful material choices throughout every stage of the design process.

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