Nychthemeron - Cyanotypes and Anthotypes

Category: Apparel

In my project, I explore the poetic intersection of Cyanotype and Anthotype, two contrasting printing methods united by their use of UV light and natural materials. The contrast between cyanotype and anthotype printing – two light-based techniques that both rely on exposure but produce opposite effects – inspired me to explore the duality of light and shadow. This led to the theme of day and night, which I translated into silhouettes by combining classic nightwear elements such as pyjamas and lingerie with structured daywear like tailoring and suiting. Cyanotype is an iron-based process, while Anthotype uses plant-based dyes and sunlight to create soft, ephemeral images. Traditionally, Anthotypes are made by applying plant juices to natural fibers and exposing them to light over weeks to bleach out forms and silhouettes. However, this process is not washfast and extremely time-consuming, which led me to develop an adapted method. I work with beetroot as a dye, extracted by boiling the root, and apply it to vinegar-mordanted and cruelty free silk. This is a fully natural and circular method: no synthetic chemicals are used, and the beetroot remains edible after dyeing – for humans or animal feed. To replicate the bleached effect of Anthotypes within a shorter timeframe, I carefully experiment with very small amounts of diluted hydrogen peroxide. These are used sparingly and consciously, solely to accelerate the light-to-shadow contrast. I am aware of the environmental implications and continually seek more natural alternatives. Both Cyanotype and Anthotype are unpredictable and sensitive to various factors such as exposure time, humidity, and material – and this organic imperfection becomes part of the visual language. Over time and through washing, the prints will naturally fade and shift, reinforcing the living, evolving quality of the garments. These pieces are not designed to be permanent or perfect – they are meant to age, transform, and reflect the rhythm of life, much like nature itself.