Hand-stitched derby no.3

Category: Footwear

Saddle-stitched derby with goodyear-welted sole. These shoes are made with no machinery, other than a Dremel to grind the soles. Contrary to the mechanisation which put handsewn shoemakers in the UK out of business, they’re almost entirely saddle-stitched; a traditional technique with a distinctive saw-toothed pattern which can only be performed by hand. Otherwise butt-stitching is employed to ensure a seamless join on the wearer's heel, and the heel counter is formed using a V-stitch, which provides shape whilst working with the weight of the leather. The leather, thread and outsole material for these shoes were chosen for the design principle of maximum sustainability. Each is as unprocessed as you can select and will go easily back to the earth. Vegetable-tanned leather, waxed linen thread, natural crepe soles; bury them in soil and they’d be gone within a decade. Moreover, the shoes were designed for longevity, both in durability of materials and use of traditional welting and slipsoles to be simple to repair and resole at any local cobbler.