Profile: Matthew Tompkins – Only Natural Design Competitions

Matthew Tompkins

Leeds Arts University

Matt Tompkins is a contemporary menswear designer whose practice specializes in both traditional menswear and unisex clothing. His innovative approach challenges conventional ideas around gender, particularly how garments influence perceptions of masculinity. His latest collection, Wildest, exemplifies this mission by reimagining historical narratives through a modern, gender-inclusive lens. Inspired by the American Wild West, Wildest draws from a time when cross-dressing, though socially taboo, was not uncommon—often driven by necessity or rebellion. A key influence for Tompkins was Calamity Jane, a historical figure known for subverting gender norms by adopting male attire. Her story reflects how clothing can alter not only perception but also social treatment. Tompkins uses this as a foundation to explore how fashion today can continue to challenge and dismantle gender binaries. In Wildest, every garment is designed to be genderless, tailored to fit all body types without being confined to traditional male or female silhouettes. This blurring of lines seeks to eliminate the outdated notion of who is “allowed” to wear what. Tompkins carefully curated the materials to remain authentic to the Wild West era, using only period-appropriate fabrics, thereby grounding his forward-thinking designs in historical accuracy. Through thoughtful design and historical context, Tompkins encourages a reevaluation of gender-coded fashion. Wildest not only questions societal norms but also contributes to the growing movement toward inclusivity and freedom in self-expression, where clothing is no longer defined by gender, but by the individual.

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Wildest, leather poncho

Category: Apparel

Competitions: Fashion Competition 2025

Wildest is a conceptual fashion collection that challenges traditional perceptions of gender in clothing, with a focus on how garments influence and define masculinity. Inspired by the American Wild West—an era often idealized for its rugged individualism and frontier spirit—the collection draws from the lesser-known history of cross-dressing during this time. Figures like Calamity Jane, who used clothing to defy gender norms and influence how she was perceived and treated, serve as a key reference point. At its core, Wildest seeks to blur the lines between male and female dress codes. Each piece is designed to be genderless and adaptable to various body types, aiming to dismantle the long-standing stigma around who is “allowed” to wear what. The designer hopes to contribute to a broader shift in thinking—one that sees clothing as a form of personal expression, not limited by gender. Historical authenticity plays a significant role in the collection. Materials were carefully selected to reflect what would have been available during the 19th-century American frontier, grounding the concept in a rich cultural and visual narrative. Despite this historical lens, the message is decidedly modern: inclusivity, self-expression, and the redefinition of gender norms through fashion. Ultimately, Wildest is more than just a collection—it’s a statement. It invites viewers and wearers alike to question societal expectations and explore a more fluid, open approach to identity. Through design, it challenges the boundaries of tradition and envisions a more inclusive future.