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Lily Pape

University of Brighton

I am a Fashion Design with Business Studies final year student from the University of Brighton. My graduate collection centres women walkers in the urban landscape, incorporating the kinds of surveillance and observation inherent to the city streets. Exploring transparency, reflection and shadow, I combined contrasting fabrics to consider whether urban uniforms can be informed by the city’s material environment.

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Flaneuse

Category: Apparel

Competitions: Fashion Competition 2026

Flâneuse centres women walkers in the urban landscape, exploring the ideas of surveillance and observation. This conception of the flâneuse draws on Sophie Calle’s Suite Vénitienne, an ‘artwork-cum-quest’ which examines the complexities of being both the surveyor and the surveyed. The artist follows an acquaintance, Henri B, around Venice, documenting his movements, and hers as she traverses the city. Calle plays on the archetypal experience of being a lone woman in an urban landscape, instead placing the vulnerability on her male subject. Referencing the beginning of women’s liberation, in which the figure of the lone city walker was born, I focused on the modern retooling of the Edwardian hobble skirt to explore methods of restriction. I used light weight organza in combination with boiled and felted wools, along with suede.

In association with Arts Thread

Working with our partners at Arts Thread to develop lifelong learning and career opportunities for students of fashion and design. Our partnership provides the opportunity to compete on a world stage, participate in industry led workshops, set up an outstanding portfolio and gain access to the resources that will kickstart careers in fashion and design.