Nettle fibres are abundant, biodegradable and need less water in production than many other fibres. They can be used to make some of the most exciting natural materials in sustainable design.
HISTORY
Nettle fibres have been used for thousands of years to make bowstrings, fishing nets, snares and cord. They were commonly used, along with flax and hemp fibres, to make textiles in Bronze Age Europe. An urn with human remains wrapped in nettle cloth was found in a 2,800-year-old gravesite in Denmark.
In World War II, England used dried nettles as a source of dye for camouflage.
Today, there has been a revival in the use of nettles to create textiles. Fashion brand Pangaia, in partnership with Candiani Denim and Himalayan Wild Fibres, has launched a denim collection–a first in textile manufacturing.
USES
Nettle fibres are known for their fine sheen, strength and resistance to wrinkling. Cloth made of nettles is very durable and has a soft finish comparable to that of high quality Egyptian cotton, making it popular for home furnishings including bedding and carpets.
The hollow fibres mean nettle fabric is good for insulation and, when the fibres are twisted, they become a finer and more breathable fabric. This means nettle cloths can be made that are perfect for winter or summer wear.
PRODUCTION
Nettles don’t sting once the plants are dried. The useful fibres come from the long, woody, stems. They are split to access the inner fibre, which then goes through a rotting process, decomposing the substances that bind the fibres. This is done by soaking nettles in ponds or water tanks and then breaking, scutching (separating fibres from the woody stalks), hackling (separating long and short fibres) and combing.
Nettles are quite easy to farm. Although no crop is produced in the first year of cultivating perennial nettles, the yield does rise annually, so that by the third year one hectare of plants will yield enough fibre to create 100 shirts. This cultivation also creates useful byproducts, such as tea leaves and gourmet garnishings.
SUSTAINABILITY
Nettles are widely considered a sustainable choice of fabric because they are readily available and are a perennial and annual species, meaning that nettle plants can be propagated as well as sown.
The cultivation of nettles also does not require herbicide or rely on heavy irrigation, making the fibres a great, natural and sustainable alternative to synthetics!
THE FUTURE OF NETTLE
Though not yet in widespread use, nettles have begun to be considered by many as a sustainable alternative to other textiles, particularly in high fashion.
In 2019, King Charles offered 3000 nettle plants from the royal gardens at Highgrove to British designers Vin + Omi to create high-end, sustainable apparel. The United Kingdom’s Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs partnered with textile company Camira and De Montford University in Leicester to develop Sting Plus nettle fabrics, all of which are variously recycled, compostable, renewable or climate neutral.
As initiatives such as these gain recognition, nettle fibres are set to become more widely recognised for their inherently sustainable characteristics and take a leading place in the natural fibre textile industry.
Sources:
https://arboretumfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/alexander_nettles-for-sustainable-textiles.pdf
